Leather Provenance Notes: Our Leather & The Tanneries Who Produce It

Leather Provenance Notes: Our Leather & The Tanneries Who Produce It

April 26, 2023

 Our leather is sourced from legendary, specialist traditional tanneries known the world over. We indulge our desires and source only truly special full grain leathers. Almost exclusively vegetable tanned or oak bark tanned leathers. All our leathers are byproducts of the meat industry, responsibly and sustainably tanned.



 

 

J & FJ Baker & Co: Oak Bark Tanned Bridle Butt

 
Based locally to our Devonshire workshop, J & FJ Baker & Co creates the most exclusive, world renowned oak bark tanned leather. The site of J&FJ Baker has been a tannery since Roman times. The Baker family bought the tannery over 150 years ago and 5 generations ago, it remains a family business today. It is the last remaining oak bark tannery in Europe, and their leather is sought after the world over.
 
Oak Bark Tanning is a long, gentle process that protects the natural fibres of the hide, unlike modern tanning methods. Using only water from the stream that flows alongside the tannery, oak bark sourced from trees coppiced in the Lake District and Wales, and the best local Devon cow hides, the tannage takes 14 months to produce the leather. The tan pits are constantly agitated by an ancient waterwheel.
 
Each Bridle Butt is expertly dyed and finished by hand with a special blend of natural fats and oils to protect and feed the leather.
 
 


Badalassi Carlo 

Badalassi Carlo is a world renowned tannery based in Tuscany, Italy producing 100% pure vegetable tanned leather. Badalassi Carlo is a proud member of the Consorzio Vera Pella Italiana. They produce their exquisite leather using traditional methods.
 
Their Wax leather is a pure vegetable tanned shoulder, through dyed. The wax added during the tanning process provides a unique pull up effect. Tanned in a wooden drum and finished with oils and animal fats, then polished with a roll of amber stone, an ancient tanning tradition.
 
Their Pueblo leather is a pure vegetable tanned shoulder, dyed through with a rustic, naked appearance and texture. The leather will take on marks and burnish up to achieve a more polished aesthetic and smooth feel, developing a unique and beautiful patina.




conceria walpier leathrr tannery 
 

Conceria Walpier

 
Walpier is an iconic Tuscan tannery, and a proud member of the Consorzio Vera Pella Italiana. Their leather is unparalleled.
 
Their Rocky is a heavyweight 100% pure vegetable tanned leather on full grain shoulders. The raw material of Rocky is made from the finest of French bulls. The hides have a beautiful smooth matte finish and are brimming with character.
 
Walpier Buttero is world famous. A pure vegetable tanned, full grain shoulder that will age gracefully with use and over time developing a stunning patina. Buttero has a smooth matte appearance. A truly special leather.





 
Conceria La Perla Azzurra S.R.L. Leather Tannery 


Conceria La Perla Azzurra S.R.L.

 
Conceria La Perla Azzurra S.R.L. is a small Tuscan tannery producing some of the finest leather available. La Perla is a proud member of the the Consorzio Vera Pella Italiana. Using traditional methods, the hides are tanned using bark and extracts from the Quebracho tree, then either greased for a natural finish or through dyed in large drums.
 
Their Dakota shoulders are full aniline leather, pure vegetable tanned, through dyed with a smooth slightly polished appearance. Due to the gentle tannage, these hides are bursting with all the natural characteristics. The sumptuous smell and colour is unparalleled. These full grain hides will quickly develop a beautiful patina. An extremely versatile leather suitable for all small leather goods and bags.
 
Their Vachetta shoulders are full grain, pure vegetable tanned, greased for a natural appearance with a smooth appearance. Due to the gentle tannage, these hides are bursting with all the natural characteristics. The sumptuous smell is unparalleled. These hides will quickly take on marks, deepen in colour and develop a beautiful patina. An extremely versatile leather suitable for all small leather goods and bags.
 
For their Missouri shoulders, the Florentine tanners add a special oil during the tanning process. Missouri is full grain, pure vegetable tanned, through dyed with a random tumbled/pebbled appearance and texture with some parts of the hide being smoother and other parts being more intensely tumbled. The ‘Bottalata’ look is achieved by soaking the hides in oil and then tumbling the skins in drums allowing the oil to move inside the fibres and produce ‘wrinkles’. The result is a stunning textured hide bursting with natural character.





 
Tempesti Leather Tannery
 

Tempesti Leather Tannery

 
Tempesti are Tunscan tanners producing world famous leathers. Tempesti is a proud founding member of the the Consorzio Vera Pella Italiana.
 
Tempesti Maine Liscio shoulders are pure vegetable tanned, full gran with a non-pigmented aniline finish. Supple and mellow to touch.





CFS is an iconic British tannery based in Leeds
 

Charles F Stead

 

Charles F Stead is an iconic British tannery based in Leeds, with a cult following immortalised by the fashion conscious Dr Martens and renowned for their suede, in particular, the Clarks Original Desert Boot. CF Stead is a true heritage classic dating back to 1904, with parts of the tannery dating back to 1823.

 
CFS Oiled Shoulders have a mellow full grain tannage with a fully aniline waxed finish to retain all the natural characteristics of the hide. It has a casual appearance and classic pull up.
 

 




Horween Leather Tannery Chicago


Horween Leather Tannery

 
The Horween Tannery in Chicago, USA, is still family run and has been producing world famous leather since 1905. Today, Horween leathers are still made by hand, the same way as generations ago.
 
Horween Derby is a rustic vegetable tanned leather infused with a rich blend of waxes and then tumbled. It is more rugged with a softer temper than the Horween Dublin. The tannage process is the same for these two iconic leathers but the Derby has an additional process of dry milling to break up the flat characteristics for a more worn, lived in look. The hides are highly distressed due to the tumbling process, a rich pull up will enable this leather to develop a beautiful patina and become even better with age.
 
Hoween Genuine Shell Cordovan is the result of truly mastering the art of tanning. Horween Shell Cordovan is a very special leather from a very specific part of a horsehide. The process of tanning these irregular oval shaped shells takes at least six months. The shells are tanned, stuffed, shaved and then polished. It is a painstaking process. Each shell is slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors, hot stuffed then slicked onto glass frames to dry. Highly skilled artisans individually hand curry and shave the shells. A deep aniline finish is achieved by hand dying, then finally, the shells are glazed by hand to achieve the rich, glossy look and feel prized the world over.


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