The leather is full grain, tanned with oak bark from the Lake District and dyed by hand. Most tanneries produce what they call "corrected grain leather" a buffing process that removes the very top layer so the leather surface has a uniform appearance across the hide. We all know that leather, a natural animal hide is anything but uniform and we like to champion that sometimes featuring the natural irregularities in our products. The leather arrives from the tannery 5mm thick. We reduce it to around 1mm to make the Cut Edge Billfold. Most wallets have a turned edge so you cant see the true edge. We build leather goods to last and feel that turned edges are just too thin to be durable.
Oak bark tanned leather produces superb edges so we prefer to expose them. Edges of lesser quality leather are not worthy of being exposed so have to be covered by a turning technique. Perfecting edges is probably the most time consuming procedure in making leather goods. There are no short cuts - we sand with finer and finer emery cloth down to 1200 grit to get a perfectly smooth burnished finish.