The Art of Hand Stitching Leather

Stitching leather by hand is one of many options available when considering the most appropriate way to join two or more pieces of leather.

Traditionally, if stitching, leatherworkers would opt for a technique known as 'Saddle Stitching'. A good saddle stitch, perfectly executed, will never unravel.

As the name suggests, its origins are deeply rooted in the world of saddlery. Leather has been used in saddlery forever, it is believed that the first leather saddle can be traced back some time around 727 - 396 BC.

There are many ways to hand stitch leather, other than the saddle stitch, for example we recommend a crossover stitch style for our Be The Maker Billfold Wallet Kit & Card Holder Kit. This option makes a great feature of the leather stitching as the thread sits around the edge of the product. 

As with so many leather working techniques, there are many ways of saddle stitching. Whichever way you go about it, it is a time-consuming and labour-intensive process, however we believe it is well worth it!

The various techniques offer slightly different aesthetics to the saddle stitch, however, in its most basic form, a saddle stitch is where both ends of a single piece of thread pass each other through a single hole. 

Our saddle stitching process here at Tanner Bates is as follows:

Firstly, we mark our stitch line, approximately 3mm in from the edge of the product.

We then mark the stitch holes with a stitch marking wheel. This marks the location of each individual hole, approximately 4mm apart.

Next, we make each of the stitch holes individually using a stitch awl to pierce right through the layers of leather to be joined. This will create a small diagonal linear hole through which the thread will pass. Helping to create the familiar off-set diagonal look of saddle stitching.

The next process is the stitching. Using two needles and usually either a 0.6mm or 0.8mm waxed & braided polyester thread.

Finally, the thread ends are finished and sealed by melting.

There are many differences between a saddle stitch and a machine stitch. Both have their pros and cons, both have their place in modern leatherwork and we are lucky enough to be able to offer both options across our range of products.

   

This photo shows two of our Oak Bark Devon Belts, the belt on the left has had the stitch holes punched, but is yet to be stitched. The belt on the right has had its keeper added and has been saddle stitched.

   

Whilst the majority of our products are constructed using a machine stitch, paired with thinner leather for a more understated, refined aesthetic, we love the more rustic look and feel of a hand-stitched product using slightly thicker leather and thread. We opt for a saddle stitch technique on some of our products, including our Devon Messenger Bag, Kingsbridge Travel Bag, Bellever Bespoke Watch Straps and our Oak Bark Devon Belts.

Absolutely, you can hand stitch leather, and in fact, many high-quality leather goods are hand-stitched because it's often stronger and more durable than machine stitching. Hand stitching allows for a stitch called the saddle stitch, which is not possible to do with a sewing machine. In a saddle stitch, both ends of the thread pass through each hole, creating a double-strength stitch.

Here's a basic guide to hand-stitching leather:

Remember, as with many crafts, leather stitching requires practice to perfect, so don't be discouraged if your first few attempts don't turn out exactly as you'd like.

The best hand stitch for leather is typically the "saddle stitch". This stitch is highly regarded in leatherworking due to its strength and durability. Unlike a machine stitch, where a break in the stitch can lead to the whole seam unravelling, a saddle stitch is less likely to come undone because it essentially creates two independent rows of stitching.

This type of stitching takes some practice, but it's well worth the effort when it comes to creating high-quality leather goods.

Hand-stitched leather does have several advantages over machine-stitched leather, particularly when the saddle stitch is used, which is only possible by hand.

Here are a few reasons why hand-stitched leather might be considered better:

However, hand stitching is much more time-consuming than machine stitching, which makes hand-stitched items more expensive. Additionally, achieving a consistent, professional look with hand stitching requires a significant amount of skill and practice. So while hand-stitched leather can offer superior quality, it may not always be the best or most practical choice for every application or budget.

When sewing leather by hand, it's recommended to use a special type of needle known as a leather needle. These needles are different from regular sewing needles in several ways:

There are also different sizes of leather needles available for different thicknesses of leather. A larger, thicker needle will be better for thick or heavy leather, while a smaller, thinner needle will work better for thinner, softer leather.

Remember, always exercise caution when using these needles, as they are very sharp and can cause injury. It can also be useful to use a thimble or a special leather stitching palm to help push the needle through the leather.

Can you hand-sew leather, and why is it preferred over machine stitching?

Absolutely! Hand-sewing leather is a time-honoured craft that produces stronger and more durable seams than machine stitching. The saddle stitching technique is particularly valued because, unlike a machine stitch that can unravel if broken, a saddle stitch remains intact, making it ideal for long-lasting leather products. Whether you’re working on leather belts, wallets, or bags, hand-stitching adds a level of craftsmanship that machines simply can’t replicate.

 

 

What’s the best type of stitch for leatherworking?

The saddle stitching technique is widely considered the best stitch for leatherwork. This method involves using two stitching needles, each attached to one end of the thread, to create an interlocking stitch that holds up even if part of the thread wears down. This technique is perfect for crafting high-quality handmade leather products that stand the test of time.

 

 

Do I need a special needle to hand-sew leather?

Yes! A leather sewing needle is specifically designed for working with thicker materials. Unlike regular sewing needles, leather needles have a sharp, chisel-like tip that allows them to pierce through dense leather without tearing the material. Using the right stitching needle ensures clean, precise stitches and makes it easier to stitch tight for maximum durability.

 

 

How do I get started with hand-stitching leather?

If you’re new to hand-sewing leather, start with a small project like a cardholder or black leather belt. Here’s a simple process to follow:

1. Mark your stitch line:
Use a ruler and a stitching wheel to create evenly spaced holes.

 

2. Punch the holes:
Use an awl or pricking iron to create stitching holes for your leather sewing needle.

 

3. Thread the needles:
Use a strong waxed thread with two stitching needles for saddle stitching.

 

4. Begin stitching:
Pass each needle through the same hole from opposite directions, ensuring a stitch tight enough to hold the leather securely.

 

5. Secure the ends:
Backstitch the final few stitches and melt the thread ends to prevent fraying.

 

With practice, you’ll gain experience in leather crafts and be able to create your own collection of beautiful leather products.

 

 

Why do hand-stitched leather goods last longer?

Hand-stitched leather goods are designed to last because they use superior leather working techniques. Unlike machine stitches, which rely on a looping mechanism, the saddle stitching technique locks each stitch independently. This means that even if one stitch breaks, the rest of the seam remains strong. The result is high-quality leather products that can be passed down for generations.

 

 

What types of leather products benefit most from hand-stitching?

Hand-stitching is ideal for many handmade leather products, including:

 

• Leather belts – Hand-stitching ensures a strong, durable seam that withstands daily use.

 

• Bags and wallets – Adds a premium, artisanal touch.

 

• Watch straps – Provides the flexibility and strength needed for everyday wear.

 

• Black leather accessories – Enhances the sophisticated look with precise stitching details.

 

Hand-stitching is a great way to elevate a collection of leather goods by adding craftsmanship and durability.

 

 

How do I maintain my hand-stitched leather products?

Proper care is essential for keeping your leather products in top condition. Here’s how to maintain them:

 

1. Regular cleaning – Use a damp cloth and mild soap to remove dirt without damaging the leather.

 

2. Conditioning – Apply a high-quality leather conditioner to keep the leather soft and prevent cracks.

 

3. Avoid excess moisture – Store your items in a dry place to prevent mold and warping.

 

Well-maintained handmade leather products not only last longer but also develop a rich patina over time.

 

Is it worth investing in hand-stitched leather goods?

 

Absolutely. While hand-sewing leather takes more time and effort, the results are worth it. Hand-stitched leather products offer:

 

• Unmatched durability – Thanks to the saddle stitching technique and superior materials.

 

• Aesthetic appeal – Unique, artisanal craftsmanship that sets them apart from mass-produced goods.

 

• Longevity – A well-stitched black leather wallet or belt can last a lifetime with proper care.

 

If you appreciate fine craftsmanship, investing in handmade leather products is always a smart choice.